Skin ampoules - are they the same as serums or skin capsules? What are their underlying benefits? How does one use them? Skincare hoarders, listen up!
Skin ampoules are here all the way from sunny Spain, to change your skincare game for good! In addition to the toners and moisturisers you have been using so diligently, skin ampoules are the new skincare staple you definitely need to get your hands on! Supercharged with highly potent, skin-nourishing ingredients that offer a multitude of benefits - skin ampoules are like shots of serum that revive the skin from deep within. The best part is that there is an ampoule to suit every skin type, and every skin concern ranging from brightening, pigmentation, pore refinement to aging!
What are skin ampoules? What makes MartiDerm and their skin ampoules so special?
MartiDerm, a Spanish brand revolutionised skincare forever in 1989 when it introduced the unique concept of skin ampoules to the world. A pioneer of their time - they developed a special formula that combined Vitamin C with other active ingredients to regenerate and restore the skin following aggressive peel treatments used by dermatologists at the time. Founded in 1952 in Barcelona, the brand has grown massively to become a market leader today and sells more than 1,80,000 ampoules everyday in over 35 countries.
But what makes a skin ampoule so special from a regular serum? Skin ampoules are formulated using airtight amber glass, where the inert atmosphere does not allow any contact with light or air preventing Vitamin C from oxidising. This means that not only is the Vitamin C super concentrated and active, but also in its purest form, ensuring maximum efficiency and absorption into the skin. In addition, what differentiates MartiDerm ampoules from other generic skin ampoules in the market, is the fact that they are formulated at the optimum pH (3.5) - which does not disturb the skin’s natural pH balance. It also ensures maximum penetration into the skin and prevents any degradation of pure Vitamin C.
What are Proteoglycan skin ampoules and how do they benefit the skin?
To break it down for you, proteoglycans are natural macromolecules produced in the body which form the skin's structure. They are a class of proteins that restore the epidermal cells, intensify metabolism of the connective tissues and restore the functions, physical properties and physiological appearance of the skin. They are located in the space between the cells (extracellular matrix) and fill them up since they are lightweight and water-loving in nature. The skin’s endogenous production or the capacity to naturally produce them tends to lessen over time.
Enter - skin ampoules!
Proteoglycans are very beneficial to the skin in a number of ways:1. Intense hydration: They regulate the aqueous content of the connective tissue with their ability to retain water. They have the power to absorb a large volume of water (up to 1,000 times greater than its own weight), which provides turgidity and lubrication to the skin.
2. Enhance the skin's firmness: They assist the body in forming collagen fibers, which help keep the skin firm and boost the reconstruction of degenerated tissues, promoting luminosity and radiance.
3. Improve skin structure: Their ability to increase the connection between the cells and the extracellular components around them increases the rigidity of the skin and strengthens the skin's structure.
4. Anti-aging properties: They provide the skin with swelling pressure which helps it to withstand compressional forces. This in turn makes the skin more elastic and reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Moreover, they protect the skin from free radicals and repair the effects of sun damage and photoaged skin.
5. Accelerate the healing process: Possessing both anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, they help speed up the skin’s natural healing process, and provide protection to the skin’s epidermal cells.
What is Proteum 89+ and what makes it a unique Proteoglycan?
MartiDerm proteoglycans are the oldest in the industry, as they were the first ones to introduce them to skincare products. In 2014, they introduced Proteum 89+, an exclusive molecule that contained the most active fraction of a plant proteoglycan. During their inception, they used animal proteoglycans but later switched over to plant-based proteoglycans in 1990 for international safety reasons and to be more environmentally responsible. They consciously chose a green ingredient that was derived from soybean. Today, most of the MartiDerm skin ampoules contain 3% of these, i.e. Glycine max (Soyabean) Polypeptide.
However, you may be wondering what properties does Proteum 89+ has that makes it a superior choice over conventional proteoglycans? Owing to the fact that they are smaller in size, they have a higher penetration power and activate both collagen production and water retention, to give the skin firmness and elasticity. They brighten the skin from the very first moment and have an anti-wrinkle effect. In addition, they have a biological sun filter that protects the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation that may lead to aging, sun damage, pigmentation or anything that upsets the skin’s epidermis and causes it to degrade.
What are the different forms of active Vitamin C in skin ampoules? What are its benefits?
Vitamin C has three forms that are commonly used in skincare:
- L-Ascorbic Acid: This is pure Vitamin C which is the most active form of the ingredient. It has maximum efficacy when it is formulated at the right pH. It is a potent antioxidant that has skin-soothing agents that protect against oxidative stress and reduce the signs of aging. It is also a powerhouse when it is mixed with other antioxidants like Vitamin C, or when used by itself in high concentrations, such as 10-15%. The beauty of this Vitamin C is that it is suited for all skin types, and this is why MartiDerm uses L-Ascorbic Acid in all their skin ampoules where it is carefully formulated to ensure enhanced efficacy, stability and absorption into the skin. It has a triple action effect, which works on three different skin concerns (anti-aging, sun protection and depigmenting).
- Ethyl Ascorbic and Ascorbyl Glucoside: This has a higher penetrative ability that can reach deeper levels of the skin. Its power strengthens when it combines with L-Ascorbic Acid as it provides enhanced protection from oxidation and ensures the longer activity of the Vitamin C. This is why MartiDerm Photo Age is created using 5% Ascorbyl Glucoside along with 10% L-Ascorbic Acid, to create a high concentration of 15% Vitamin C together. They help do damage control to photoaged skin by repairing cells, unifying skin tone, preventing as well as reducing visible signs of ageing like wrinkles, sun damage and fine lines.
- Ascorbyl Palmitate: This is a lipid-soluble form of Vitamin C which helps attain stability in the liposome. This is especially for those with reactive or sensitive skin due to the high pH (5.5), making it the key ingredient in MartiDerm Proteos Liposome. It ensures that the texture of the liposome remains fresh and light - perfect to avoid any skin irritation.
How do you incorporate skin ampoules into your skin routine?
The golden rule of skincare states that you begin your skincare regime with thinner, water-based formulas before moving onto the thicker, oilier ones. Use the easy opener that comes with every box to open the ampoules in a simple and convenient manner. Ampoules can be used in a number of ways - the most common ones being as a serum or as a ‘super serum’. Apply them onto a well-cleansed face post toner. With ampoules, less is more - so take a few drops on your palm, and massage them onto your face, neck and décollete in upward, circular motions. They are meant to be used twice a day - once in the morning, and once at night for optimum results.
Cleanser > Toner > Ampoules > Serum > Eye Cream > Moisturiser
Now that you are well aware of skin ampoules and their benefits, you are now two steps away from nourished, regenerated and wrinkle-free skin! All you need now is a skin ampoule to amp up your beauty regime for good! We promise you your smooth, supple and naturally glowing skin will be all the testimony you ever need!
- By Krisha Jhaveri