Rolling with the times: Everything you need to know about Derma Rolling

If you have come across the term of derma rolling or micro needling, you might wonder how poking needles into your skin could possibly be a good idea! But, do not let those harmless needles intimidate you. We are going to introduce you to your new best friend. 

So, what really makes these needles so effective?  The roller essentially works by causing a “wound like response”, that signals the skin to stimulate higher cell turnover and elastin production. In this article we take you through the entire derma rolling process. Read and roll on!

What is micro needling and what are its benefits?

The rate at which our skin heals reduces after the age of 25. Micro needling is a technique that uses a tiny roller with microscopic needles at its head on the surface of the skin to stimulate collagen production. What makes this treatment special is that it targets scars, wrinkles and irregular texture without using any chemical formulation purely depending on the response of your body.

 Clinics and professionals apply general anaesthetic compounds in order to operate larger sized needles to reach even deeper into the skin compared to the results achieved at home. However, incorporating a derma roller safely in your “at home routine” can target various issues. Some of its main benefits include -

1. Maximum efficiency of products

Without using a derma roller, your skin only absorbs 4 to 10% of the product. Adding a derma roller into your routine will help in deeper penetration of the product. Your skin will receive 70% more giving better results and lesser wastage.

2. Reduce pore visibility

Derma rolling will not change the size of the pores that are genetically present but it helps to tighten their visibility by reducing its appearance.

3. Combat signs of ageing

To attain brighter and youthful looking skin, it is important to shed off the dead layer sitting on the surface. Once the skin is punctured with your derma roller, blood and collagen is rushed to the targeted area to repair and regenerate new skin cells in the process.

4. Reduce discoloration and scars

Clinical studies have shown overall positive results while using derma roller to treat acne scars. It removes the top layer of skin solving issues related to visible scars, hyperpigmentation and uneven texture.

5.  Reduce dark circles

Dark circles are caused when the blood vessels beneath are visible through the thin layer of skin. Rolling under the eyes can overdrive collagen production and thicken the skin around the eye making it beneficial to solve dark circles.

This is an image of what microneedling is and what are its benefits.

Steps to follow while using a derma roller and products we recommend

Step 1: Cleanse the skin

Before you start using your derma roller cleanse your face, use small circular motions with a gentle face wash removing all the dirt and makeup. Do not use any cleansing oil, balm or cream as we do not want any residue left on the surface of the skin. Ensure that your hands are clean too. VedaEarth Moisturising Face Wash cleanses your skin with nature's purest healing, soothing ingredients such as Coconut Milk and Bulgarian Lavender. It is the wholesome self-care remedy to clean, hydrate and calm the skin for a soft, naturally glowing face.

Step 2: Prep your skin

Apply two layers of serum of your choice to get maximum benefit. The perfect ingredient to look for is Hyaluronic Acid as it helps to increase the skin’s hydration making it plump. Using the House of Beauty Hyaluronic Serum will make your skin super soft and smooth.

Step 3: Begin rolling

Use the House of Beauty HOB Derma Roller 0.25 mm to trigger new collagen synthesis in skin and remove acne scars, light pimple marks, light coloured freckles. On the other hand, the House of Beauty HOB Derma Roller 0.75 mm helps in removing more stubborn acne scars, surgical or burn scars, very deep wrinkles and stretch marks.

Start at your jaw by using your index finger to gently hold the skin at the chin. Take your derma roller and gently start rolling without any pressure in a back and forward motion approximately 6 times. Once done move on to the next area till you complete rolling in back and forward motion. Once you have vertically covered the jaw and cheek area on both sides of your face, run your roller in an upward and downward motion. You will begin to notice redness in your skin, but that is normal.

Step 4: Roll over the remaining area

Similarly, repeat all the steps while approaching your forehead and rest of the face. Do not forget to roll between your eyebrows to target your frown lines and your upper lip. Follow the same motion and move to the neck area. However, due to the sensations felt you could potentially divide the two areas over alternate days.

Step 5: Aftercare

After you have used the derma roller your skin is quick to absorb any product you apply. Be extremely careful with the product you choose to apply. Most commonly, you could apply another layer of your Hyaluronic serum else you could use soothing natural ingredients like the Prakriti Herbals Hydrate and Glow Aloe Vera Rose Facial Gel or a moisturiser. You must avoid harsh or direct sunlight for the next few days and wear sunscreen by The Mom’s Co Mineral Based Sunscreen during the day.

 

How to choose the right derma roller?

There are two main types of micro needling tools available namely, derma roller and derma stamp. Depending on your skin type you can use a derma roller 2 to 3 times a week at home. If you have sensitive skin, active acne or rosacea you should not use it at home and must consult a professional. However, if you have acne scarring then it is the perfect technique to treat them.  

 The Derma roller is a small wheel with 100s of tiny needles that come in different sizes. The size represents how deep each needle goes into the skin. As the needle size increases so does the intensity of lines, scars and marks you can get rid of. The best way to find out which product works for you is to concentrate on the concern you want to target and research more about it. Here we have given you a summary of all the sizes available to use at home -

1. Size: 0.25 mm

It is the smallest needles size available and is just right for those starting off with sensitive skin. It improves serum penetration and is designed to increase cell turnover.

How often can you use it: Every other day

Target areas: Appearance of enlarged pores, discoloration, fine lines

2. Size: 0.5 mm

Not only does this help to increase collagen and elastin production but also reduce wrinkles and other visible signs of ageing.

How often can you use it: 1 to 3 times a week

Target areas: Uneven skin tone/texture, open pores, signs of ageing

3. Size: 0.75 mm

This needle can improve texture making the skin smoother. You might experience tiny blood spots leading to a longer recovery period compared to 0.5 mm

How often can you use it: Once every 2 weeks

Target area: Sun spots, sun damage, blemishes, deeper wrinkles

4. Size: 1.0 mm

This addresses deeper or more stubborn skin concerns. It penetrates to the papillary layer of the skin. Not only is it good for the face but can also increase hair growth if used on the scalp. As the needle length can cause a bit of stinging you might want to use a numbing cream.

How often can you use it: 20 to 25 days apart

Target areas:  Deep wrinkles, shallow acne scars

5. Size: 1.5 mm

It is recommended to use this size mainly for the body. If you do want to target deep acne scars you must consult with a professional.

How often can you use it: Once a month

Target areas: Deep acne scars, cellulitis

6. Size: 2.0 mm

This size can be very painful and might cause significant bleeding. It should only be used on the body unless recommended by a dermatologist.

How often can you use it: Every 6 weeks  

Target areas: Deep acne/surgical/burn scars, stretch marks, cellulitis

Any roller above 1.5 mm should be used under professional supervision. If you are choosing a roller for the face, pick a needle size between 0.2 mm to 1.0 mm, while use can use a size between 1.0 mm to 1.5 mm for any other part of your body. You can use the roller for 6 months potentially after which must discard it away as it may not be as sharp and effective.

This is an image of how to choose the right derma roller.

Is derma rolling dangerous and what are the precautions you need to take?

Derma rolling is considered fairly safe as long as you follow the right technique and guidelines. If you are going to undertake this activity at home ensure you use the correct tool/needle size, pair it with the right products and maintain a sterile environment. Following these precautions can make it unlikely for you to experience any adversely reaction:

  • Sanitise your derma roller: Before you start, make sure your tool is properly sterilised. It is recommended to soak the roller in alcohol for 30 seconds and thoroughly wash it off with water to ensure that no alcohol seeps through the microchannels of your skin. After you finish using your roller, rinse it under hot water then spray a roller cleanser and secure it back into its case.
  • Check for bent needles: Make sure your needles are perfectly straight and in good condition. Using a roller with broken needles could damage your skin causing inflammation and infection.
  • Avoid Retinol in your routine: It is best to avoid active ingredients such as Retinol due to its potent and transformative nature that can cause irritation. Although it has great effectiveness, it can penetrate deep into the skin and react harshly when combined with needles.
  • Consider your skin condition: While there are many benefits associated with derma rolling you must make sure your skin is ready to accept the treatment. Make sure you do not have any active acne, sun burns, open wounds or sensitive skin that could do more harm than good. 
  • Use a numbing cream: Derma rollers at home have very tiny needles that can be used without a numbing cream however if you have low pain thresholds, we recommend using an over-the-counter anaesthetic gel. Your face will turn red, leaving you with a tingly sensation but that is normal.
  • Do not share your derma roller: As tempting it might be to share the results of your derma roller with friends and family, using the same equipment on each other’s skin might cause bacteria development and lead to infection. The needles penetrate deep into the skin and could transmit blood borne diseases.
  •  Avoid pressure near the eye area: The skin around the eyes is extremely delicate. To target dark circles and eye bags you must only use a 0.20 mm needle after applying hyaluronic acid that acts as a buffer.  Even though using the roller can be beneficial, you must tend to it carefully. Never roll the roller over your eyelids.
  • This is an image of the precautions that need to be taken while using a derma roller.

    SUMMARY 

    By incorporating a derma roller in your beauty routine not only will it receive higher efficiency of the products you use but also treat various ageing, scarring and discolouration concerns. You can achieve great results with little to no pain. With all the benefits that come through micro needling, we encourage you to start derma rolling. 

    - Howrah Lookmanji

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